MI VIDA MADRILEÑA
Summer 2012
“After about 8 years old, Spanish students do not use lined paper… because we are adults and write with pen…”
My teacher.
One of the strangest things I have heard in Spain, accompanied with a twinge of insult towards us American students who use notebooks and pencil
Excuse me, Mr. Policia...
Ever seen a Spanish policeman?
It seems that in order to become a policeman, one must submit a head shot - they are all incredibly attractive.
I ask them questions all the time, one because we are often not certain where we are going, two they have nothing better to do than talk to me it seems and three why not?!
Moment of today: Caitlin and I getting whistled at through the loud speaker as we walked away from the police car we asked directions from.
Professional? Not in the slightest. Flattering? Oh yes.
"Maury Noble, from Philadelphia, for instance, remained two months, and together they realized the peculiar charm of Latin women and had a delightful sense of being very young and free in a civilization that was very old and free."
~ F. Scott Fitzgerald, The Beautiful and Damned.
Change a few words and your have our summer <3.
G****s
Guiris.
I don’t like this word.
It has nearly the same meaning as gringa (a word I love for many reasons) but here in Madrid I don’t understand why it exists.
Luckily in Spain I’ve never been called a guiri. But recently I’ve heard and read it more used to describe foreign tourists. A common phrase I have found in reviews for restaurants is “Esta llena de guiris,” or “It is full of tourists.” And from what I can gather it is not derogatory per say but demeaning. (A quick google image search will give you an idea of the meaning behind it.)
When I get called a gringa in Latin America its because I stand out. I stand out because I stand a head over everyone, I have blue eyes, speak english and have fair skin. I am from a completely different socio-economic class, eat different foods, and our cultures are vastly different.
Here in Spain, I wouldn’t have to look hard to find someone very similar to myself. So why is there a specific word for me? Blue eyes aren’t common but exist, I’ve seen women taller than myself, hamburgers aren’t that hard to find, we listen to the same music and we shop and the same stores. Many people speak English at the same level I speak Spanish.
I try really hard to not be a tourist. I don’t get sucked in by free this or that and I try to stay out of places that are non-authentic. But I have come to realize that some tourist zones or streets are full of amazing food or shopping. So why aren’t there Spainards there and why am I told to avoid them? Because of the tourists. Some tourists, like myself, do our research.
I know that Madrid is always full of foreigners but why is that something to dislike? In reality, tourism is one of the biggest if not the biggest industry in Madrid. (Money for healthcare comes from somewhere after all).
Fort Lauderdale has lots of tourists, but I don’t think I’ve ever avoided an area because I might encounter a Canadian.
Every Spaniard I have met has been incredibly incredibly nice. I have been asked the question more than once if I find Spaniards or Americans to be more friendly, and I have answered every time that ”Los Espanoles son mas amables." From these experiences I know that Spaniards don’t honestly dislike tourists, especially young American chicas (just kidding, people were nice to my parents too,) but this term guiris really rubs me the wrong way.
*EDIT*
I asked Señora and Angel about the meaning behind guiris during la comida today, right after I wrote this. Of course the first thing they said was that “Oh, but you don’t look like one.” They explained it to me as someone who is obviously foreign, knows nothing of Spain, is despistada (lost, absent minded). Señora said like the Japanese tourists and Angel says he thinks of English people. It’s not an insult but claro, what it means is not a compliment either. And just because I’m not one doesn’t mean it doesn’t still bother me. Señora said much worse is Yankee.
No Bull.
What. A. Weekend.
In reality I was only in Pamplona, Spain for the San Fermines festival to see the running of the bulls, el encierro, from Saturday at 8 pm ‘till Sunday at 2pm but in true Spanish fiesta fashion I was awake the whole time.
I traveled with 3 other chicas and 3 other chicos - we got their by a surprisingly comfortable 5ish hour bus ride. The country was beautiful, if not a little dry since the rain in Spain doesn’t fall in the summer, and it seemed like around every turn was another ruin posted up on a hill. I’m sure Spaniards get desensitized to it, which is sad, but not this American, not yet, and I hope never. We even drove by fields of sunflowers!
We honestly had no idea how the festival was going to work and had been wondering how we would know what to do or where to go. Arriving was super exciting. We went down a hill and suddenly there were thousands of people dressed in white clothes with red scarves. We joined the crowds of crazies for the rest of the night to watch some alternative rock band in a park, wander the city, dance, eat bocadillos (subs) and finally claim our spot to watch the bulls. We waited there for two and half hours, literally fighting off people to keep our spots. I think I can officially sass in Spanish. My coveted point of view was sitting on the dirty ground (side note: I’ve never in my life seen so much trash in a city), peering through someone’s legs standing on the gate, then through a group of paramedics and another gate. I will confess to you it wasn’t much of a sight, the bulls and people were both a blur, and what I could see was over in a few seconds, but it was beyond exciting. It was also incredibly safe if you weren’t running. Friends who ran said it was pretttttty scary.
Something interesting we noticed and weren’t expecting to see was that people of all ages enjoy the festival. I saw lots of little old couples walking around or dancing to traditional music. We also saw an astonishing amount of little kids with their parents, dolled up in adorable red and white outfits.
Would I do it every year? No. Would I do it again? Maybe.
Do you want to run with the bulls? If you do let me give you a few recommendations.
- Don’t get a hotel. If you want to sleep, sleep in a park. It is part of the experience.
- Don’t plan on staying more than one night. It is the same thing every single day. (God bless the sanitation workers)
- Wear closed toed shoes. Especially if you want to run. It is not so much a comfort factor, but a oh-my-goodness-my-feet-are-black factor. I wore sandals.
- Ladies, wear pants/shorts. While us chicas looked guapas in our dresses, there is lots of ground sitting to be done. Guys, go full euro and wear white pants.
- Bring a sweater. It got cold and I bought a red pullover while I was there. It served for much more than just a sweater too - also a pillow and blanket.
- Talk to people! We got all of our information from asking. It really surprised me how many Pamplonians actually stayed in the city and partook in the festivities. I figured they all left every San Fermines season.
- RUN. Do research ahead of time and be sure you are in good shape. Find out which bulls are running what day, what gun shot to leave at and where to start. It is possible to to do it smart. It is mostly the crazy drunkards that run into trouble.
How we celebrate winning the EuroCup in Spain! They performed live during the homecoming celebration for La Roja, the team, in a big plaza named Cibeles and 10,000 crazy Spaniards. It was so fun. Yo soy Español!
Eu Não Falo Português
I’m off wandering in Portugal with my parents for the weekend! Posts will be limited because I left my computer (what was I thinking?) Today was so lovely - one, to be reunited with them and two because Porto is a really interesting riverside town. It is so strange that I can’t speak the language though! Luckily many understand Spanish. Portuguese has too many difficult sounds in it.
Un Discurso
I gave a speech in Spanish today at the June closing ceremony (a little graduation with certificates and all) for Nebrija. I was honored to be asked, especially because our program lasts another month. I was a little nervous, normally I wouldn’t be, because I was the only one to speak that isn’t a native speaker. I for sure made mistakes while delivering it, but over all I think it went ok. The other student who spoke joked with me that we were the Valedictorians. Ha. Here it is!
Hola a todos. Me llamo Alice Sykes y soy una alumna de la Universidad de Florida. Seguro que puedo hablar en nombre de todos los estudiantes de mi programa cuando digo que este mes ha sido un tiempo increíble para aprender un idioma nuevo, encontrarse con una cultura nueva y hacer amigos nuevos. Yo tengo la gran suerte de quedarme en Nebrija y España por otro mes para continuar con mi educación, pero eso no decrece la importancia de este mes. Llegamos en mayo con diferentes niveles de Español y he visto que todos han mejorado. Este mes me ayudó a llegar a dominar las estructuras gramaticales complicadas pero útiles, gracias a Ana. Gracias a MariaAngeles, puedo identificar todos los arcos. Y tengo ganas de aprender mas sobre español para la empresa durante el mes que viene.
Tengo una impresión muy buena de la gente de Estudios Hispánicos. Estoy agradecida de que en Nebrija se una una mezcla grande de estudiantes. De me propio programa he hecho amigos nuevos y se han fortalecido las relaciones que tenia antes. Me da mucha pena que mis amigos de otros programas terminen y se vayan ya. Me sorprende mucho que fuertes amistades puedan crearse en tan poquito tiempo. Se que solo pueden ser el resultado de un mes intenso de estudio y diversión. Gracias a todos que estabais abiertos a compartir su verano con desconocidos.
Buena suerte para todos los que os vais ya. Espero que cuando uséis u oigáis español, penséis en los tiempos en Nebrija. Nosotros, que nos quedamos, espero que el mes que viene sea tan grande como este, si no mas.
Muchas Gracias!
After the closing ceremony we had lunch of salad, seafood paella, and ice-cream. It was at the beautiful Nebrija campus in the outskirts of Madrid, and was a nice time to sit and talk with classmates and teachers. I am so sad that the ISA and San Diego programs are only here for a month so my friends are leaving. Love you Rachel, Faye and Katelin!!
I can’t believe its already been a month, or that I only have a month left!
This is my new best friend for life.
Like literally for life. Like I might die without it. Literally.
Ok that is a little dramatic. But I’m pretty sure I got dehydrated in my sleep last night, even after drinking nearly 5L of water between 5 and 12. Today’s liter count is already at 2L.
Just to give you an idea of how hot it is here.
Two of the most fashionable wedding guests I have ever seen. I wish the photo showed her shoes - they were suede pumps that matched the orangey coral color in her dress. I was absolutely in awe of the outfits the women wore to this mid-day summer wedding in Salamanca, Spain. They do it right here.
The Fruits of a Wonderful Afternoon!
What does it say about me that shopping finds made my day, as opposed to seeing Picasso in the Museo Reina Sofia? Not anything horrible I don’t think - just that I don’t really ‘get’ modern art.
The wonderful afternoon started around 7 (yes, thats still considered tarde here). I ran into a classmate Anne on the metro and we figured out we live really close to each other! She had been to Lefties, a cheaper Zara, in our area so we went to shop a little. I didn’t get anything but I want to go back. Apparently July is the month of clothing discounts in Spain.
On the way home we discovered the pasteleria that sells the empanada you see pictured. A yummy easy dinner! I’m sorry it is half eaten, I got hungry while writing this.
Then I finally stopped in the local fruits and vegetable market. I purchased the cerezas cherries, specifically called guindas since they are black, and some zanahorias carrots. The carrots don’t have much flavor, but the cherries are AMAZING. I had seen lots of people eating them/carrying around large boxes of them so I knew they had to be in season. Something I really liked about the produce store is that its open air and everyone puts on little gloves before touching all the fruit.
It was so great to find some life around me! I was a little down on the area because I hadn’t found any stores that I liked to shop in. Everyone was out and in great mood despite of the heat. I feel like I saw my little ‘home’ with new eyes today. =)
"Watcha lookin at?"
Gambas Rojas - just one of the great tapas I tried last night at the Feria de Tapas, a tapas competition. Delicioso.
Heat.
The high for this week is 102 degrees F.
I’m not kidding. I wish I was. weather.com
Being a Florida girl and all, you think I’d be used to this but I’m not. The reason is air conditioning, aire condicionado, is rare.
I totally do not understand. In a big city like this, with a high standard of living, where temperatures go above 100 in the summer, it does not make sense that air conditioning is not a norm. (Big stores do have central air.)
There’s not even a fan in my room. I just discovered there is a wall unit in the living room. Poor Señora has mentioned how hot it is at least twice a day since I’ve been here. She should use it! She even said one day she couldn’t sleep because of the heat.
The university has wall units in every room. But they don’t always work. Some days, especially before the the poor little units start kicking, it is too hot to focus.
Now, I’m not normally one to complain. And I do like that when its not necessary to use it, Spaniards don’t even have air conditioning to use, as opposed to running it constantly like we do in the States. It is far more green. But I think because it gets as hot as it does here, in this day and age, it is time to introduce the miracle that is air conditioning to Spain.
Looks like it is time to buy one of those lovely little Spanish abanico (fan).
New Words (bi)Weekly: Part Tres
I didn’t manage to post a list of new words last week, but I’ve been diligent this week to get this post ready for today!
reirse (v): to laugh, jajajaja jejejeje
tener risa nervosa: to laugh nerviously
morirse de risa: to die of laughter
cachetes (n): butt-cheeks!
eructar (v): to burp
estar avergonzada, tener vergüenza, *dar verguenza = all the many ways to say “I’m embarrassed”
ponerse rojo: to blush
ponerse verde: to green with envy
tener cosquillas: to be ticklish
hacer cosquillas: to tickle
grosero/a (adj): rude
asqueroso/a (adj): gross
un piropo (n): a pickup line
cursi (adj): cheesy
descolgar/colgar el telefono: to answer/hang up the telephone. Also, when answering the telephone no one says hola but instead digame (dime if you know who is calling) or ¿si?
acabar de: to just have done something
estar a punto de: to be just about to do something
“soy un crack”: a phrase along the lines of “I’m a genius / I’m so witty.”
sentarse mal: to bother
ileso/a (adj): without a scratch
enterarse (v): to realize
Two VERY DIFFERENT meanings
- "¿Te gusto?" does not mean “Do you like me?” It means more “Do you find me attractive?”
- To ask if someone if they like you as a person, a friend, the question is "Te caigo bien?" The opposite, if someone doesn’t like you is "Te caigo mal?"
Experiencing Spain as a Sick Person
This post could also be titled “Not Experiencing Spain as a Sick Person.”
In a week of being sick I missed - one trip to the royal palace, a dance class, a flamenco show, two days of class and a few dinners with friends. It so happened I managed to fall ill on a busy week. Since my immune system manages to fail me once every two months at home, I figured I might as well take this chance (?) to reflect on what its like to have a cold here. It is part of life after all - well at least mine.
- Taking the metro is quite an experience. Being underground makes your ears pop, and the stairs seem extra traitorous when your head is spinning
- Since many Spaniards smoke (a topic worth a post), walking in any public area is potentially dangerous normally, but especially so with a stuffy nose and cough.
- Medicine is sold in strange forms - ibuprofen you drink, por ejemplo.
- There are really weird thoughts about air conditioning here (also worth a post). When I told the doctor I had a cough, the first thing he did was turn it off. Also, my host family tried to explain one day that maybe my roommate had gotten sick because the air conditioning in the metro was so cold.
Thankfully, I’m feeling better and ready to be done with this ‘learning experience!’
“If I ever thought writing a thesis in English was hard…”
I might be in bed fighting a Spanish cold / writing a Spanish paper and presentation but my thoughts still look something like this… Good thing I still have a month and half left!